Kicking up my Heels at the Grand Hotel Ciudad de Mexico

A few days ago I played tennis for the first time in a while and reinjured my right ankle which had been strained from consistently playing tennis on hard court surface. In Canada, the surface I play on is soft, like clay and it is much more forgiving on the joints. I've been icing and hobbling along for a few days and today I woke up to find my left ankle in more pain than the right one, most likely due to the fact that I have been compensating for the injury of the right ankle. I'll be okay, I know, but as I am impatient by nature and as I am within the last third of my Mexico trip, it's hard for me to stop in my tracks and literally put my feet up. "Hmm, where should I do this, so it really counts?" I thought to myself. And then I remembered one of my must-see destinations was denied a few months ago by a security guard at the Grand Hotel Mexico City. I had been in the historic city centre, and wanted to go in the famous hotel lobby to take some pictures, but due to the pandemic, access was restricted to hotel guests or those who had a reservation at the rooftop terrace. "Well, today is the day I make a reservation and secure my pass to the rooftop terrace," I said to myself. I went online and changed the default table seating for 2 to "for 1" and entered all the necessary information. My Uber would take me there in 30 minutes for about $10 CAD. I knew that if I wanted to avoid long and hot rush hour traffic, I would need to be back in my neighbourhood before 5:00 pm. 

 Once downtown, I used Google Maps to find the door to the building, where a charming host guarded a red velvet rope, and greeted me politely. He moved his hand to unlink the red velvet rope as he stated/asked whether I was a hotel guest. He anticipated I would say yes, which is why he was already stepping aside to let me through. A woman and obvious tourist had been denied entry just before me so when my turn came, I said I had a reservation at La Terraza with as much Mexican confidence as I could, and he immediately let me through. The generic carpeted stairs did not prepare me for the wow factor I was about to experience. 

At the top of the steps, my gaze widened to take in the commanding view of the interior. Built in 1899 as a department store, the art nouveau structure has relied on good bone maintenance to be as stunning as it is. Apparently, the curving staircase is a replica of the one at Paris' Le Bon Marché , (but I am sorry I didn't use the stairs). The antique elevator, made of concrete and iron, was the first of its kind in Mexico City and the gilded birdcages filled with flowers added a colourful touch of elegance to the almost sparse ground level. But as I limped my way to the tufted red velvet lobby seats, I looked up and felt like I was inside a giant Fabergé egg. The ceiling is a massive glass dome from Jacques Graber's workshop AKA Tiffany stained glass, imported from France in 1908. I would like to know what moving company managed to transport such a spectacular jewel without a single crack. Two Men and a Truck? I don't think so!

Tiffany stained glass dome ceiling of the Gran Hotel CDMX

Looking up towards the Tiffany sky

Gilded birdcage-makes me want to be a bird!

Gilded birdcage adorning the hotel lobby

According to Fodor's, the hotel is one of the most beautiful buildings surrounding the Zócalo (downtown square). It's only 4 storeys tall, but the unobstructed view from the rooftop terrace of the Zócalo and National Cathedral make you feel like you're on top of the Valley of Mexico. I had a perfect view from my table for 1, and scanned the QR code for the best drink to take the edge off my sore ankles. And since it is not every day you see a cucumber and Tajín margarita on the menu for $10, I ordered that and enjoyed the view. 

View of the National Cathedral from my table

View of my super-sized cucumber and Tajín margarita from my table

My waiter was very chatty, asking me where I was from and I normally do get a kick out of saying I am from Canada, born in Mexico but also American. I can now say I am from Ottawa without people asking where that is, because news of the Freedom Convoy has put it on the map, even in Mexico City. Mostly I make conversation about the food, insisting I can't have onions, scallions, chives or anything of the onion family. So the waiter made a special note to ensure my shrimp tacos did not bear any onions. I usually compensate the table for 1 by ordering 2 things, but from the appetizer menu so after I had the 3 mini tacos, I ushered in an artichoke heart and cheese fondue. If I had a red velvet rope at my table I would have gladly unlinked it to let the food arrive faster. Both items were delicious, and with every sip of the margarita, I think I actually began to say "Mmm! Yummy!" in a progressively audible voice. My prescription for sprained ankles was bang-on. I will definitely come back to The Grand Hotel Ciudad de Mexico, hopefully next time sharing the experience from a table for 2.

Three shrimp tacos joined me for lunch

Ouch! My ankles hurt. But wait, this calls for a margarita!

Hasta la vista, beautiful lobby!

"Brassieres! They're on the second floor at Sears!" (my dad used to sing that whenever he saw a fancy elevator)