I think most of you know I have had sleep issues for most of my adult life, attributed to Restless Legs Syndrome or Willis-Ekbom Disease where just as you are supposed to relax and fall asleep, or enjoy a movie or an orchestra concert at a music hall, or sit still on a plane, your legs feel like they have millions of ants crawling inside, and your leg muscles begin to stiffen and move uncontrollably. It is most unpleasant and sheer torture when you are tired and all you want to do is sleep. Sometimes, to help me fall asleep, I turn on my Rosary App and just meditate in prayer and it distracts me enough to fall asleep. I can't remember the last time I slept through the night and last night I did get some sleep after praying the entire rosary. Then in the morning, I started my grooming routine and I realized that I packed a small bottle of holy water with a design of the patron saint of Mexico on it, the Virgin of Guadalupe. I splashed it on and felt like singing the song from Annie "You're Never Fully Dressed Without a Smile" but instead of smile, I insert "holy water" and that's how significant it is for me.
I thought of La Virgen de Guadalupe because today I saw an old dear friend, Guadalupe or Lupe whom I met in 1994 when I was working at the Embassy of Mexico in Ottawa and whose husband was my boss. She kindly picked me up and we went for an outdoor breakfast within the neighbourhood where I am staying, Coyoacan. She showed me around some of the most beautiful streets, including old family homes or haciendas that are unfortunately too big and costly to maintain and are now converted into either restaurants or open-air art galleries, or public spaces. I think the same kind of thing happened in Downton Abbey to Highclere Castle.
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My friend Guadalupe and I enjoying breakfast |
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A picturesque restaurant in Coyoacan |
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A Coyoacan estate home converted to a restaurant |
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These flowers are called goblets of gold in Spanish, Copas de oro |
The beauty of the neighbourhood was accentuated by the seasonality of the upcoming Day of the Dead, Dia de los muertos as was my breakfast which included a special bread only available at this time of the year called pan de muerto. The bread looks like a round lumpy mound, and the lumps represent bones of the dead. All the bakeries carry this sweet bread dusted with sugar at this time of year when people place it on their home altar as an offering to their beloved departed.
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A Catrina is emblematic of the Day of the Dead |
Many of the homes we saw had a devotion to the Virgen of Guadalupe, and even though this is a poor country 90 percent of the population is Catholic and faith plays a big role in their happiness. Growing up, we had a sign in our house that read, "Some people are so poor that all they have is money." I told Lupe that while I am here in Mexico I want to seek fulfillment by giving to those in most need, so currently I am researching where I can make the most impact. I know first hand that this is the way to true happiness and that having faith even in times of challenges and uncomfortable situations, like having restless legs for the rest of my life leads to trust and enlightenment. It doesn't have to be obvious or understood, but just in the foreground that all will be well if you trust in God.
Lupe and I talked about how we found refuge in our faith and that the hardships in life are real, experienced by everyone, but surpassing them is where a lot of people get stuck. I am grateful for my faith and being raised Mexican, it comes with the territory. It was my mom who gave me the little bottle of holy water several years ago.
After Lupe left, I connected with another old friend from the embassy days, Jaime the agnostic! He was the consul general at the Mexican Consulate and we hit it off back then as we understood each others' sense of humour. Jaime is now retired, and we had lunch at a Turkish restaurant, broke bread together, and later took a walk through the neighbourhood park. We also talked about religion and didn't need to agree to respect one another and continue laughing at the same things. After that, we went to his penthouse apartment and he showed me the view of the city from the rooftop. We talked about art, jazz, relationships, parenthood, and more, and hours later I couldn't believe what time it was. Below is a picture of me and Jaime in the early 2000s contrasted with one from today. Jaime is a friend for life and perhaps we will travel together one day as we both are keen to explore and share expenses. I was fortunate to visit him in 2002 in Miami when he was posted there and he was a gracious host. His nickname for me since 1994 has been "Pumpkin!" Very seasonal indeed.
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An altar for the Day of the Dead with seasonal flowers used to mark the occasion |
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Frida Kalho and Diego Rivera |
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Beautiful gardens from a home once owned by a single family |
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An outdoor gallery depicts a statue |
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An Aztec calendar in an estate garden |
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A kitchen with a wood-fire stove from colonial times |
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Jaime and Clara today and in 2002
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