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No running in the halls

According to the figures of the government of Mexico City, the capital has more than 185 museums. Today I explored one that I have been to in the past, but it was as a little girl, and of course, compared to then, these days I see things from a much more mature lens. This new perspective was the perfect backdrop to explore a beautiful castle with a handsome princely friend and pretend to be a princess in her own regal palace.

A commanding view of Mexico City from the castle


With my amigo José Luis. What's not to smile about from way up here?

El Castillo de Chapultepec is an actual palace built on a hilltop of what is now a large park, and on a site that was sacred to the Aztecs. Chapultepec is a Nahuatl word that means "hill of the grasshopper." My friend José Luis picked me up at 1:30 with no specific plans other than to go to a museum, and as it was a Tuesday sunny COVID afternoon, we thought it would be the best choice to spend the day.  

The castle boasts incredible views, that make the sun-drenched, uphill walk with facemasks well worth it. We enjoyed taking pictures of the city from its terraces and gardens that were typical of the 1780s European architecture. It was built by a Spanish viceroy as a family home and during construction it was feared that it was secretly intended to be a fortress to use in rebellion against the Spanish. After a few administrative mishaps, the castle was sold to the municipal government of Mexico City. 


Stained glass windows as seen from an outdoor courtyard

The castle was abandoned during the Mexican War of Independence (1810-1821) and beyond, and later had several uses including housing a military college. Perhaps its most famous inhabitant was Maximilian Von Hapsburg who was invited to Mexico to establish the second Mexican Empire. He and his wife Carlotta undoubtedly hosted epic parties there, for those royal a-listers who RSVP'd and probably did not BYOB. At the time, as the castle was on the outskirts of Mexico City, Maximilian ordered the construction of a straight boulevard (modeled after the great boulevards of Europe, such as Vienna's Ringstrasse and the Champs-Élysées in Paris), to connect the Imperial residence with the city center.

A view of the boulevard Reforma from the castle straight to downtown Mexico City
Tower in the garden of the Alcazar

Inside the castle, there was limited accessibility and José Luis was keen to show me one particular hall with stained glass but as it was all enclosed we were not allowed inside, so my plans to run in the halls were thwarted. The virtual version can be seen here. 

Today, the castle is officially the National Museum of History. One of the most interesting murals (sorry no picture as it was too big) depicts the Battle of Puebla which is celebrated as Cinco de Mayo. Today I learned that the reason Americans celebrate this day so much is that had Mexico not defeated the French Empire in 1862, which at this time was one of the most powerful in the world, the US would most likely have been attacked by the French and defeated, and things would look a lot different for the US.  A lot of Americans mistake this day as Mexican Independence Day, but it is not. Mexican Independence Day is September 16, 1810. That is when the whole country runs in the halls and yells, Viva Mexico!

Modern architecture in the background makes for an interesting contrast

Outdoor terrace with incredible views



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