Today is Halloween and Mexico City has shut down its main avenue, Paseo de la Reforma, and environs to make way for a huge parade spawned by the 2015 James Bond film, Spectre. The parade was featured in the movie, but it didn't actually exist so when Mexico City's tourism officials began to get inquiries about it, they decided to make the parade official. I plan to check it out from as much a distance as I can, but since it starts at noon my longtime friend, (and former colleague) Jaime, and I will enjoy a leisurely breakfast at a cheap and cheerful restaurant chain called Sanborns. Jaime knows of a particular Sanborns near his place which has an open solarium filled with plants and tropical birds. So he asked me if I was a bird person and I said yes, and next thing you know I am wearing my Catrina hairband and veil, Mexican blouse and sash, and sipping a cappuccino among the evil shrill of overstimulated birds. Very apropos for Halloween I would say!
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| Dressed for Halloween sightseeing |
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| My Halloween capuccino |
A million people are reportedly expected to attend the parade, so I thought it wise to have a Plan B, which for me was to check out the Soumaya museum which is free and not too far from the parade route. I had heard its sixth floor was almost exclusively devoted to Auguste Rodin's sculptures and some Renoir and Rodin paintings. Jaime was still feeling the effects of our whirlwind attraction hopping the day before so he politely announced he was going to watch the parade on TV from the comfort of his home. As we exited the restaurant, he walked behind me and once at the exit he let me know everyone in the whole restaurant was staring at me while I walked out. I think I was the only one in costume even counting the kiddos! My costume and I parted ways with Jaime and we headed towards the Museo Soumaya. Note, I described the Museo Soumaya in an earlier post, but as a refresher it is named for the late wife of Mexican billionaire owner Carlos Slim, and is recognizable for its unique and striking architecture. The iconic buiding is tiled with 16,000 aluminium hexagons that add a shimmering moderninity to the swanky Polanco neighbourhood. In terms of the art, the museum has more than 60,000 pieces, and imported Grecian marble floors.
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| Museo Soumaya - always free! |
There was a bit of a lineup at the museum, not because of the number of people but because the security personnel taking everyone's temperature, spraying hands with antibacterial goo, and also checking bags for liquids. I had a bottle of water wrapped in my Frida Kahlo shawl and then stuffed in my purse so no one would take it away from me.
Once inside, the museum you have to either take the elevator or walk up a wide coiled ramp which brings you to a floor that is hotter and stuffier than the previous. I took the elevator to the 5th floor and accessed the Rodins on the sixth floor from the curved ramp. It's a very impressive way to see the whole Rodin exhibit from one vantage point, and really from the moment I saw how vast the exhibit was, I was glad I started at the top floor because most of the visitors work their way from the bottom to the top.
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| Beautiful architecture leading up to the Rodins |
Th exhibit was exquisite, and I think I read almost every single placard and contemplated most of the sculptures. I took a few pictures of some of the most striking ones and sent one of Hands Playing Piano to my son Andrew who is a gifted amateur pianist.
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| Hands Playing Piano |
Lucky for me, a version of The Thinker is on permanent display here. I had visited a temporary Rodin exhibit at the Chicago Art Institute in 2018, but since it was a work trip it did not feel the same in terms of being in the moment and coexisting with the bronze statues.
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Yes, I think you shoud move!
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After a couple of hours and trips to the bathroom to sneak a few sips of water from my bootlegged beverage, I felt I should start making my way towards the parade.
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| The Martyr, 1885 |
I made my way down the coiled staircase which forces you to walk through the exhibits between each floor. Well, since my Halloween costume did not include horse blinders I could not resist and so I spent more time at the parade of masterpieces that stood still.
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| Juan and Lupe |
I also enjoyed the Mexico Lindo mid 20th century Mexian pop art exhibit. Between 1930 and 1970 the Galas de Mexico created calendars and advertising cards that became embedded in the collective subconscious of many Mexicans. In mid 20th century Mexico it was common for a calendar to be given away with purchases, and the images featuerd idealized images of the traditions, history, tourist attractions or characters.
By the time I left the museum, the parade was clearly over, as many people were walking against the direction I was headed in a desperate attempt to catch the end. I got nervous when I saw the large number of people heading towards me, so I u-turned and found a quiet taqueria which had a table for one on its patio. I think the waiter felt sorry for my as I ate my tacos in my halloween costume because he sent over the most delicious rib eye taco on the house, and kept checking on me, making sure he addressed me as "my princess, my sweetie" etc. I definitly got the benefit of this trick-or-treat!
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