The morning that took my breath away

Written on Dec. 17, 2021- Have you ever walked into a space, and had your breath taken away by the magnitude of its indescribable beauty, its significance in this world? I've been fortunate to experience that unforgettable feeling a few times. The first was in 2001 when I stepped into St. Peter's Square in Vatican City. I was caught off guard by that arresting sensation, and my jaw dropped as I surveyed the area with both my eyes and my heart. The second time might sound corny, but it was in 2013 when I had just started working at the National Arts Centre in Ottawa and I followed the red-carpeted stadium foyer into Southam Hall. Its 2000+ seats commanded a sense of awe and appreciation for all the spectacular artists who shared this view over the decades. I had been there before as a patron, but this time was different because the hall was empty and I was about to start a job that complemented my love for dance and the arts. Both times, I felt so blessed and humbled at the same time.

The third time was last week when I waltzed into the gardens of a place where I had been many times as a child, teen, and as an adult. Somehow entering Las Mañanitas Restaurant and Garden Resort from its unassuming walled entrance was more impactful this time, perhaps because there was tremendous attention to the detail of Christmas decorations, or perhaps because I knew that going out to enjoy a leisurely brunch by myself in such a lush setting was so off-kilter with the constricted social life we've had forced upon us by a global pandemic. Plus, it's also the start of winter, a time when going out would normally mean putting on boots, hat, gloves, scarf, and a coat instead of strappy sandals and a light dress. Also, under normal circumstances I would be busy with a day job, behind a desk, having a zoom with a work team miles away. 

Back to my new reality: Stepping into the grounds of Las Mañanitas brought back a flood of memories. It's the sort of must-see place that used to be on the tour bus stops as a destination, and over the decades my parents have taken many visiting friends to Las Mañanitas, all of whom were immediately taken aback by the lush and beautiful landscape. I am happy to report that Misha had a chance to visit this paradise in 2007 with me, and Andrew has been there too, although he was little and was more interested in the potato chips that come with the margaritas, than in the roaming peacocks and flamingos. 

2007-Andrew enjoying the snacks, despite a peacock clamoring for attention!

2007, Misha and I at Las Mañanitas

Las Mañanitas -which, by the way, is Spanish for Little Mornings and the title of the traditional birthday song of Mexico- has been around for 62 years. Its owners are not Mexican, but they have definitely impacted Cuernavaca by putting the restaurant and hotel on the map. Bob Krause was an American entrepreneur from the Pacific Northwest who opened the restaurant in 1995. After surveying other areas of Mexico for the perfect climate, Cuernavaca AKA the City of Eternal Spring won the beauty contest. The flora and fauna are also good enough for the dozen or so peacocks that roam the 2.5 hectares. Manicured garden paths lead you to the different parts of the hotel and spa, which because of its expanse, does not ever seem crowded. If you go for lunch or dinner, you're first seated deep in the main sunken garden, on a lawn shared by toucans, parrots, and other exotic birds. With a pre-dinner cocktail in hand, you can admire the Mexican hacienda serving as the hotel lobby and kitchen access. Sculptures by Mexican artists also accentuate the view with an artistic touch. A waiter takes your order as you sit on the wicker Barcelona-style chairs and once the food is ready, you're escorted towards the hacienda patio to dine in style. The dishes are hand-painted with the restaurant's custom logo which features a very proud peacock. 

Dec 17, 2021 with a Christmas tree of potted poinsettias

I understand much of the menu features seafood in homage to Kraus' origins. I was having brunch during this visit, so I chose French toast and a scrambled egg on the side. The French toast was the best  I have ever had, and it came with the ingenious accompaniment of melted butter as well as a vanilla creme. Melted butter is clearly underrated and underused, in my humble opinion. 

My french toast was served with hot melted butter. Genious!

Anyway, while I was there the waiter double-checked that the host had not mistaken the "table for 1" request, and when I confirmed that I was flying solo, he promptly took away the extra place setting, prompting the rest of the patrons to turn their heads with as much discretion as a little kid who might be seeing an extremely old person for the first time. I didn't care, I quickly became acquainted with a beautiful peacock who decided to flirt with me. Before my order came, the restaurant manager checked in with me and asked if I was staying as a guest in the hotel (I can't hide from my obvious tourist look). I told him no, and that I had been here many times before. He proudly suggested a book for me to buy, which was a very heavy coffee table style book all about the hotel and restaurant's history to commemorate its 60th anniversary. The book was beautiful and featured text in English as well as Spanish, and several recipes that had made it on the menu over the years.

Albino peacock calls Las Mañanitas "home"

The restaurant manager kept checking in on me and eventually asked me whether I would like a private tour of the hotel and spa section which are not accessible to those who are only dining at Las Mañanitas. I did not hesitate to say yes, and soon after my scrumptious meal, a representative from the Orlane Spa came to pick me up in his pristine white uniform. We walked through the restaurant gardens to a small gate that gives access to the hotel section, which featured more lush gardens and a pristine pool, plus a toucan and a flamingo.

As I took in the splendor of the gardens, I could quickly understand how many celebrities have been drawn to Las Mañanitas over the years. I found an article in the LA Times archives which might put things into context:  

"...From the 16th century conquistador Hernan Cortes to the 19th century Hapsburg emperor Maximilian to 20th-century expatriates such as the heiress Barbara Hutton of the U.S. and writer Malcolm Lowry of Canada, many famous foreigners have made their homes in Cuernavaca. One way or another, these celebrities have left their marks on the place. And, somehow, many of these landmarks end up with food connections.

Las Mananitas is only one example, albeit a particularly happy one. Krause was an entrepreneur who opened this restaurant in 1955. Las Mananitas operated as a cooperative in which everyone shared in the profits. Though he is sadly gone, the restaurant operates still, part of a luxurious Relais et Chateaux hotel..." 

I can't remember the list of modern-day celebrities who have been to this hotel and resort, but it was an impressive guest list that is printed in the commemorative book. 

In terms of a spa, I am not the kind of person who has ever enjoyed a facial  or any up-close scruitiny of my pores, so I won't be getting the full treatment there, but I will definitly consider a package which includes breakfast, a massage and a day at the spa for $99 CAD. During the week the space is very quiet, so it is ideal for social distancing. In my case, I feel like it would be "socialite distancing." (ha ha very funny).

I hope you can pamper yourselves during these troubling pandemic times. It doesnt' have to cost a lot of money or involve a 5 star resort. It can be as simple as a little morning that takes your breath away.